The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.
This is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.
"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of growers who produce vintage from four hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to have an official name yet, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Across the Globe
To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines with views of and inside Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas stay greener and ecologically varied. They protect open space from development by establishing long-term, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a city," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Throughout the City
The other members of the group are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."
Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over 150 vines situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various wild yeasts are released from the surfaces into the juice," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at the local university developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on